The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes "sight-seeing." - Daniel J. Boorstin
It is rightly said that one who looks within finds nothing. But the one who looks outside finds it within. Similarly, he who goes out to meet people comes to know himself.
A traveler seeks experience, and experience is what he collects. The men of business run after gold without knowing what to do with it (except selling it to someone else); whereas a traveler stops and enjoys the glow without making any claim on the gold. And such is his gaze that things start shining when he turns his eyes on them.
Sometimes he suffers in his pursuit, but he doesn't grieve his suffering. Because those who court the pleasures of life don't mind her tantrums. Her tantrums only incite him more, and invite him deeper. For a traveler, even a bad experience is a positive experience. For experience can never be negative. And he evaluates his life in terms of the experience that he earns, and it is only this that makes him feel enriched and fulfilled.
*************************************
Route: Hyderabad --> Bangalore --> Hosur --> Palakkadu --> Pennagaram --> Perumbalai --> Mechcheri --> Bhavani --> Tiruppur --> Palladam --> Chinnar --> Munnar --> Thekkady --> Kottayam --> Allapuzha --> Kochi --> Hyderabad
Hyderabad to Bangalore -- by Train, and Kochi to Hyderabad -- by Flight. Rest of the way was covered by bike (Unicorn).
Quite contrary to the popular belief, a five days long bike trip to Kerala is less tiring than you are likely to imagine. In fact a single day of drudgery in an air-conditioned office is more tiring, and I am talking about physical tiredness here. How sad that most of you wouldn't believe this!
Day 1: Bangalore - Mariyoor (Munnar) --> The lush green hills and the breathtaking blue lakes of Munnar attract thousands of tourists, especially honeymoon couples, every year. Understandably, hotels are costly there. For the couples, stories eagerly wait for the nightfall; but in our case, climax yawns at doormat and falls on bed asleep. It therefore makes little sense for us to spend too much on hotels.
We had started at around 9 in morning and entered Kerala just before sunset. After crossing Chinnar wildlife sanctuary we decided to stay at Mariyoor, which is located appx. 40 kms from Munnar. In the way we befriended Maharajan, a Tamil gentleman, who made sure we got a cheap place to spend the night. When we checked in, he also made a point to drop in and tell us everything that could be of our use.
After bidding the kind man goodbye, we celebrated our Diwali with Kerala Paratha, came back to our room and switched off the light.
Day 2: Mariyoor - Nedumkandam (Thekkady) --> Staying in Thekkady, home to the Periyar wildlife sanctuary, would have been a costly affair for us. So we used the old formula again - using native wisdom and choosing a lesser known place near the main location to pass the night.
Well, Munnar happened in morning. More than the place, the ways approaching to it impressed us more. Munnar is picturesque; in fact pictures follow your sight wherever you go. But no picture could have captured what we were feeling through our skin - the warm massage of sun and the gentle caress of air. No camera could have captured the cool freshness of the valley in our lungs. Its eye wouldn't be able see the vastness in which the scene was stretched. Standing on the road, which crawled amid tea gardens like a serpent, there were moments when our ecstasy knew no bounds. Looking at the tea gardens it seemed as if someone had covered the hills by a green velvety carpet, which changed its shades with every angle and every turn. We saw the earth's shades changing with the change in sky. No photography could have captured that change, which makes a place look alive. So, leaving the gold for others to capture, we decided to enjoy the glow.
By the sunset, I could cover much less than that I had anticipated. Far ahead of Munnar, the curvy roads became bumpier and jerkier, and to make the matter further interesting, it started raining as well. Things had started to be a little difficult for me. I removed my sunglasses to improve visibility but the insects flying on to the headlight threatened to hit my eyes. I had to put my shades on even when the road was dark and the headlight was not bright enough. We were late and I was slow. Thankfully, an auto-rickshaw went past us and I followed the two little red spots for rest of our journey. The drops of water kept falling on my sunglasses washing those little red spots away. Quite surrealistic that feeling it was, and what a memorable ride! But for good reasons I will advise you not to ride or drive after sunset when you are at such a place.
Day 3: Nedumkandam - Kottayam --> A side seat in a ship, a ride in Periyar lake, few deers and elephants at the shore and that's it. I was beginning to feel like a tourist there. Ideally I would have liked to go deep into the forest, and sit on a Machaan in a moonlit night waiting to get a glance of a tiger. Thankfully ideals stay away from reality.
We had clearly understood the advantages of started early, so we decided to leave for Kottayam as soon as we got off the ship. It was a downward journey to the plains. There was nothing remarkable about this ride until we neared Kottayam. I will always remember this road for having the best hoardings I have ever seen. Being the one on the driving seat I should rather have focussed on the road only. But those ads were so tastefully shot and those women were so sensuously posed that it would've been rude to ignore them.
From Kottayam we rode to Kumarakom only to find out that the boats in backwaters don't move in night. But the boatmen still urged us to go for a "Home Stay" or hire a houseboat. We could very well imagine why someone would like to spend a night in a still houseboat. Anyways, we came back to Kottayam and stayed there.
Refreshingly, this was not yet another town full of malls and multiplexes. the kind you see one and you see them all. There is hardly any character that defines and differentiates, and so severe is the identity crisis that now towns and cities are rated and compared on the basis of their malls! But Kottayam is not a cloned copy of Gudgaon or Noida. It has an unmistakable local flavor, and it tasted good on our palate. Keralites are politically aware lot - "Are you a Communist?", they would ask when they would spot my Che Guevara T-shirt. Otherwise they are simple folks who spend half of their time fidgeting with their lungis. The women wouldn't hesitate to indicate a passing stranger that his bike's headlamp is on. They don't seem to have any idea why they should be scared of men. Well, all this is unimaginable in North - such simplicity and such civilization.
Day 4: Kottayam - Allapuzha -->
A charming good morning, soft golden sun, cool blue breeze and a road open to zoom through the heavy smell of aqua life - quite a delight of a ride this was along the famous backwaters of Kerala!
A. Backwaters - The backwaters foster a world on their banks. The green water grows coconuts and fish, and when winds blow from west, tourists would swarm to the merry of the ferrymen. Life was simple till came rich people with plenty at their disposal. The relaxed, rhythmic, romance of boating was ousted by the loud opulence of houseboats, which were owned by big businessmen of Bombay and hired by those who cared little whether they were in a house, in a boat, or in a houseboat as long as they were getting their privacy and their daily dose of vanity. Later on, some of them would expound on the interior aesthetics as well. However, this aesthetics has not done wonders to the ecology as well as the economy of the backwaters. If you seek a place free from noise and smoke of traffic, go somewhere else. And if you care to investigate, you'd find out that of the Rs 1200 that you had paid for a 6 hrs backwaters village tour, the poor man who rows the shikara gets something around Rs 60 (Rs 2000 per month)!
Those who know, know that big is not always better. Huge houseboats have no access to the narrow alleys of backwaters, where life prospers. Well, we not only got a village tour but also tried our hands in rowing. We also got a chance to talk with our boatman and other villagers. In the end he felt emotional enough to hug us. And that surprised me a little, because it was charming for us to be generous to him, but it must have been difficult, if not dangerous, for him to express his affection to those who were richer than him. It needs a heart of gold to love someone richer, and the poor man had that heart. But I could not have complimented him for this. Perhaps his peace of mind, which didn't even mind his poverty, didn't need that.
B. Beach - In night we drank some beer and lied down on the white sand to listen to the soothing music of sea. By the time I woke up the sand had soaked all the stress and left my body achingly blissful.
Day 5: Allapuzha - Kochi -->
Again a delightful ride, and this time along the coast. Though never visible, the sea always made its presence felt in air.
At Fortkochi we stopped to see the fishermen catching fish with their famous china net. A large number of visitors, especially foreigners, had gathered there and were waiting for the net to be lifted. The fishers would ask the spectators to keep back. The air was heavy with excitement and anticipation. Finally that moment came and numerous cameras rose to capture the awaited scene. And here came the anticlimax - just one fish in that gigantic net! And a few seconds later even that fell back into the water. So much for all those elaborate conspiracies. For some time there was a silent disbelief all around. What a goof-up it was! Good morning comedy show absolutely for free.
Kochi has a few good palaces and churches but we were not very keen on visiting them. In confusion I took the bike straight into the first lane that I saw. And that incidental ride took us through one of most exotic experiences I have ever had. The cultural affluence of Kerala was copiously scattered on both the sides of the lane. The exquisite works of art, delightful smell of spices, colorful handicrafts, beautiful paintings, and even huge snake boats: civilization at acme of its artistic accomplishment was there to behold. I was so overwhelmed that I didn't remember to note the name of the lane. Another goof-up of the day!
And then came a time when I had to see myself off at the airport. I was to come back to the real world. The air hostesses greeted with their fake smiles. I don't look at them while their eyes are on me. I realize that looks a bit impolite but I can't look at hypocrisy without looking rude. I am not crazy about flights anyway, and these air-hostesses make things even worse for me.
A few hours brought me five days back. I am again here in Hyderabad. Weeks come and go unnoticed. We don't bother to ask what makes a day any different from the other. Life passes by, only in planning and preparing for the future. We see people around us living in vain hope and dying with unfulfilled dreams. But we fail to see reality in our case. I am happy I have lived a life in these 5 days. These 5 days will always glow in my memories.
Useful Tips: Do not forget to use sunscreen lotion (SPF 50 or more) if you are to go for such a trip. I got severe sunburn on my face as I forgot to do so.
It is rightly said that one who looks within finds nothing. But the one who looks outside finds it within. Similarly, he who goes out to meet people comes to know himself.
A traveler seeks experience, and experience is what he collects. The men of business run after gold without knowing what to do with it (except selling it to someone else); whereas a traveler stops and enjoys the glow without making any claim on the gold. And such is his gaze that things start shining when he turns his eyes on them.
Sometimes he suffers in his pursuit, but he doesn't grieve his suffering. Because those who court the pleasures of life don't mind her tantrums. Her tantrums only incite him more, and invite him deeper. For a traveler, even a bad experience is a positive experience. For experience can never be negative. And he evaluates his life in terms of the experience that he earns, and it is only this that makes him feel enriched and fulfilled.
*************************************
Route: Hyderabad --> Bangalore --> Hosur --> Palakkadu --> Pennagaram --> Perumbalai --> Mechcheri --> Bhavani --> Tiruppur --> Palladam --> Chinnar --> Munnar --> Thekkady --> Kottayam --> Allapuzha --> Kochi --> Hyderabad
Hyderabad to Bangalore -- by Train, and Kochi to Hyderabad -- by Flight. Rest of the way was covered by bike (Unicorn).
Quite contrary to the popular belief, a five days long bike trip to Kerala is less tiring than you are likely to imagine. In fact a single day of drudgery in an air-conditioned office is more tiring, and I am talking about physical tiredness here. How sad that most of you wouldn't believe this!
Day 1: Bangalore - Mariyoor (Munnar) --> The lush green hills and the breathtaking blue lakes of Munnar attract thousands of tourists, especially honeymoon couples, every year. Understandably, hotels are costly there. For the couples, stories eagerly wait for the nightfall; but in our case, climax yawns at doormat and falls on bed asleep. It therefore makes little sense for us to spend too much on hotels.
We had started at around 9 in morning and entered Kerala just before sunset. After crossing Chinnar wildlife sanctuary we decided to stay at Mariyoor, which is located appx. 40 kms from Munnar. In the way we befriended Maharajan, a Tamil gentleman, who made sure we got a cheap place to spend the night. When we checked in, he also made a point to drop in and tell us everything that could be of our use.
After bidding the kind man goodbye, we celebrated our Diwali with Kerala Paratha, came back to our room and switched off the light.
Day 2: Mariyoor - Nedumkandam (Thekkady) --> Staying in Thekkady, home to the Periyar wildlife sanctuary, would have been a costly affair for us. So we used the old formula again - using native wisdom and choosing a lesser known place near the main location to pass the night.
Well, Munnar happened in morning. More than the place, the ways approaching to it impressed us more. Munnar is picturesque; in fact pictures follow your sight wherever you go. But no picture could have captured what we were feeling through our skin - the warm massage of sun and the gentle caress of air. No camera could have captured the cool freshness of the valley in our lungs. Its eye wouldn't be able see the vastness in which the scene was stretched. Standing on the road, which crawled amid tea gardens like a serpent, there were moments when our ecstasy knew no bounds. Looking at the tea gardens it seemed as if someone had covered the hills by a green velvety carpet, which changed its shades with every angle and every turn. We saw the earth's shades changing with the change in sky. No photography could have captured that change, which makes a place look alive. So, leaving the gold for others to capture, we decided to enjoy the glow.
By the sunset, I could cover much less than that I had anticipated. Far ahead of Munnar, the curvy roads became bumpier and jerkier, and to make the matter further interesting, it started raining as well. Things had started to be a little difficult for me. I removed my sunglasses to improve visibility but the insects flying on to the headlight threatened to hit my eyes. I had to put my shades on even when the road was dark and the headlight was not bright enough. We were late and I was slow. Thankfully, an auto-rickshaw went past us and I followed the two little red spots for rest of our journey. The drops of water kept falling on my sunglasses washing those little red spots away. Quite surrealistic that feeling it was, and what a memorable ride! But for good reasons I will advise you not to ride or drive after sunset when you are at such a place.
Day 3: Nedumkandam - Kottayam --> A side seat in a ship, a ride in Periyar lake, few deers and elephants at the shore and that's it. I was beginning to feel like a tourist there. Ideally I would have liked to go deep into the forest, and sit on a Machaan in a moonlit night waiting to get a glance of a tiger. Thankfully ideals stay away from reality.
We had clearly understood the advantages of started early, so we decided to leave for Kottayam as soon as we got off the ship. It was a downward journey to the plains. There was nothing remarkable about this ride until we neared Kottayam. I will always remember this road for having the best hoardings I have ever seen. Being the one on the driving seat I should rather have focussed on the road only. But those ads were so tastefully shot and those women were so sensuously posed that it would've been rude to ignore them.
From Kottayam we rode to Kumarakom only to find out that the boats in backwaters don't move in night. But the boatmen still urged us to go for a "Home Stay" or hire a houseboat. We could very well imagine why someone would like to spend a night in a still houseboat. Anyways, we came back to Kottayam and stayed there.
Refreshingly, this was not yet another town full of malls and multiplexes. the kind you see one and you see them all. There is hardly any character that defines and differentiates, and so severe is the identity crisis that now towns and cities are rated and compared on the basis of their malls! But Kottayam is not a cloned copy of Gudgaon or Noida. It has an unmistakable local flavor, and it tasted good on our palate. Keralites are politically aware lot - "Are you a Communist?", they would ask when they would spot my Che Guevara T-shirt. Otherwise they are simple folks who spend half of their time fidgeting with their lungis. The women wouldn't hesitate to indicate a passing stranger that his bike's headlamp is on. They don't seem to have any idea why they should be scared of men. Well, all this is unimaginable in North - such simplicity and such civilization.
Day 4: Kottayam - Allapuzha -->
A charming good morning, soft golden sun, cool blue breeze and a road open to zoom through the heavy smell of aqua life - quite a delight of a ride this was along the famous backwaters of Kerala!
A. Backwaters - The backwaters foster a world on their banks. The green water grows coconuts and fish, and when winds blow from west, tourists would swarm to the merry of the ferrymen. Life was simple till came rich people with plenty at their disposal. The relaxed, rhythmic, romance of boating was ousted by the loud opulence of houseboats, which were owned by big businessmen of Bombay and hired by those who cared little whether they were in a house, in a boat, or in a houseboat as long as they were getting their privacy and their daily dose of vanity. Later on, some of them would expound on the interior aesthetics as well. However, this aesthetics has not done wonders to the ecology as well as the economy of the backwaters. If you seek a place free from noise and smoke of traffic, go somewhere else. And if you care to investigate, you'd find out that of the Rs 1200 that you had paid for a 6 hrs backwaters village tour, the poor man who rows the shikara gets something around Rs 60 (Rs 2000 per month)!
Those who know, know that big is not always better. Huge houseboats have no access to the narrow alleys of backwaters, where life prospers. Well, we not only got a village tour but also tried our hands in rowing. We also got a chance to talk with our boatman and other villagers. In the end he felt emotional enough to hug us. And that surprised me a little, because it was charming for us to be generous to him, but it must have been difficult, if not dangerous, for him to express his affection to those who were richer than him. It needs a heart of gold to love someone richer, and the poor man had that heart. But I could not have complimented him for this. Perhaps his peace of mind, which didn't even mind his poverty, didn't need that.
B. Beach - In night we drank some beer and lied down on the white sand to listen to the soothing music of sea. By the time I woke up the sand had soaked all the stress and left my body achingly blissful.
Day 5: Allapuzha - Kochi -->
Again a delightful ride, and this time along the coast. Though never visible, the sea always made its presence felt in air.
At Fortkochi we stopped to see the fishermen catching fish with their famous china net. A large number of visitors, especially foreigners, had gathered there and were waiting for the net to be lifted. The fishers would ask the spectators to keep back. The air was heavy with excitement and anticipation. Finally that moment came and numerous cameras rose to capture the awaited scene. And here came the anticlimax - just one fish in that gigantic net! And a few seconds later even that fell back into the water. So much for all those elaborate conspiracies. For some time there was a silent disbelief all around. What a goof-up it was! Good morning comedy show absolutely for free.
Kochi has a few good palaces and churches but we were not very keen on visiting them. In confusion I took the bike straight into the first lane that I saw. And that incidental ride took us through one of most exotic experiences I have ever had. The cultural affluence of Kerala was copiously scattered on both the sides of the lane. The exquisite works of art, delightful smell of spices, colorful handicrafts, beautiful paintings, and even huge snake boats: civilization at acme of its artistic accomplishment was there to behold. I was so overwhelmed that I didn't remember to note the name of the lane. Another goof-up of the day!
And then came a time when I had to see myself off at the airport. I was to come back to the real world. The air hostesses greeted with their fake smiles. I don't look at them while their eyes are on me. I realize that looks a bit impolite but I can't look at hypocrisy without looking rude. I am not crazy about flights anyway, and these air-hostesses make things even worse for me.
A few hours brought me five days back. I am again here in Hyderabad. Weeks come and go unnoticed. We don't bother to ask what makes a day any different from the other. Life passes by, only in planning and preparing for the future. We see people around us living in vain hope and dying with unfulfilled dreams. But we fail to see reality in our case. I am happy I have lived a life in these 5 days. These 5 days will always glow in my memories.
Useful Tips: Do not forget to use sunscreen lotion (SPF 50 or more) if you are to go for such a trip. I got severe sunburn on my face as I forgot to do so.
8 comments:
Why a reluctant commentary?
Why an anonymous comment?
pretty cool post.
Oh Thank You. :)
badia hai ... looks like u had great fun ... photos aur hote to sone pe suhaga ho jaata :D
sona aur suhaga dono waheen reh gaye yaar. bas aankhon mein unki chamak reh gayi hai. jab yeh chamak dhundhli padne lagegi, toh phir waheen jaayenge uski talaash mein.
What's ur issue wid an anonymous post?
Apparently it's not good enuf 4 u that sum1 bothered to read ur post n liked it too... Whatevr...
Well I was just being evasive, and a bit reluctant. :)
I do respect your right to anonymity. But at the same time I have always been indifferent to someone reading or not reading what I write. If I were you, I'd read something better.
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